Category Archives: profiles

Tokaj – King of Wines, Wines of Kings

If you are a globe trotter or a connoisseur of wine, then you sure would have heard of Tokaj or how the Hungarians pronounce ‘toe-kay’. It is the signature wine of Hungary and one of the most important wines of the world. Tokaj has a rich historical tradition and has had royal connections with noblemen, Ferenc Rákóczi II, Peter the Great, King Louis XIV, Catherine the Great, and many others cherishing it.

Now, Hungarian wine producers and the Hungarian government want to take it to the world more than ever before, the way the French, the Italians and the Australians have done it. And India, an emerging market, is very much on their list.

Aggressive Marketing Plans

Ferenc Jari, The Consul General of Hungary in Mumbai

Independent Hungarian wine producers and the Hungarian government have been participating in various wine related events in India and understand that they need to go ‘aggressive’ in their efforts. Speaking to Ambrosia, the Consul General of Hungary in Mumbai, Ferenc Jari; and wine producers Nicholas Jelasity, Export Manager of Grand Tokaj Ltd and Tamas Duzsi of Duzsi Family Winery highlighted the wines of Hungary, coming from 22 regions, and the challenges of entering the Indian market. In the recent past, they have had two small shipments entering India and find they could do better with communication, education, wine tasting sessions and ‘aggressive’ marketing.

Awaiting FTA to Boost Trade

The Consul General mentioned that the Hungarian government was keen on promoting various industries, including winery, to the world. Most of the wineries in Hungary are small and medium enterprises and have challenges entering the Indian market as the duty rates are high, he said and hoped that the Free Trade Agreement (FTA) between India and Europe would materialise such that it would give a boost to trade, part of that beneficiary would be Hungarian wines. Within the European Union there is free trade and that has helped majorly the wine producers, he averred.

Nicholas said that after protracted negotiations, he has had the first of the two small shipments into India. “It has been crazy, but in a positive way. There is a lot of curiosity about Hungarian wines. There are two kinds of customers for Tokaj, one who has heard about it and happy to get hold of a bottle in India and other is the curious customer who is excited once he or she has tasted it. The challenge is about communication and we are addressing that.”

Tamas Duzsi of Duzsi Family Winery

Tamas who is in India for the third time and has been part of the delegation chalking out finer details of the FTA, said ‘education was the key’. Mentioning how one Indian student by name Kaushal came to Europe, studied about European wine making came back to India and promoted European wines. We need more people like him to explain the process of wine making and the benefits of wine drinking. The Hungarian tourism promotion agency has to invite people from India and that is a good platform to begin with, he said and mentioned how tourists from the USA came to Hungary and few of them established importing companies, thus making Hungarian wine available. “We need to do that in India.”

Pricing Strategy

Agreeing to the suggestion that Hungary needs to make substantial investments in the price sensitive Indian market, they said, ‘We fully agree. If we want to be aggressive with prices in India, we should have better pricing than in Hungary itself. We understand the duty structure here.”

Nicholas said his company has a capacity of 8 million cases and is presently doing 6 million cases. “We have the elasticity, the capacity and the rotation to produce good quality wines for the world. We will be competitive. We are competing with the likes of South Africa, Australia and others who have large-scale vineyards and mechanised operations. We will be aggressive in pricing.”

The company exports between 60 and 70% of its wines in about 150 countries, he said and mentioned that it does not mean they sell large quantities. “However, we want to continue to grow exports.”

Nicholas Jelasity, Export Manager of Grand Tokaj Ltd

Explaining how local Hungarian companies had to compete in the export market with Spanish, French and British who owned Hungarian wineries, Nicholas said, “A Spanish company which bought a Tokaj company in Hungary does everything to export Tokaj in Spain, so do the French and the British, focussing on their markets.” After the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) disintegrated in the 1990s, a lot of investment came into Hungary and many of them invested in wineries.

3 Million Hectolitres From Hungary

Hungary now produces about 3 million hectolitres of wine and had 22 wine regions in the country, the Consul General said but added that after the two World Wars and Hungary losing territory, the area under wine cultivation had come down from about 200,000 hectares to about 50,000 to 60,000 hectares. “Hungary is like little France. We have all kinds of wines, except fortified wines which are not allowed. We have a big company producing sparkling wines.”

Presently, Hungarians are also consuming wines from other countries, unlike the Portuguese who consume 98% of their own produce. “Earlier, we were protective of our wines.”

When it was pointed out that Rose and Red wines were growing in India, Tamas said, “Rose is our main product. We use high quality grapes. Of course, we have Red wines. Grapes that we use for Rose, we can use it for Red wine. Our Rose is bone dry, having higher alcohol content, gives a bit of sweetness, but not from sugar.”

Further, he said his company’s main export market is the US. “We started with two cases, now we sell in containers. We started by organising wine tasting. Recently I did 15 wine tastings in six days. We can boost sales with such strategies.” Tamas in the last event in Delhi presented Rose and this time in Mumbai offered red wine at the event.

They concurred that Hungary with a population of about 10 million had to but look at export markets. “Consumption is on the decrease and we need to make efforts to get to world markets. We need story-telling that Tokaj is one of the oldest wines in the world.” In 1737, Tokaj was declared an appellation, a delimited wine region with borders. This was the foundation for the first protection of origin in the world. Tokaj was the very first in the world to introduce a whole system of appellations controlled, 120 years before Bordeaux classification which took place in 1885 only.

French king Louis XIV said of Aszú Tokaj wine he received from Francis II Rákóczi: “C’est le roi des vins, et le vin des rois” – “The king of wines, the wine of kings”.

Ospree Duty Free marketing initiatives grow spirit sales in duty free

Avishek Bambii Das, CEO of Ospree Duty Free by MTRPL outlines the growth of Ospree, the marketing initiatives and expansion plans.

What was the rationale behind the creation of Ospree?

MTRPL operates across seven international airports in India, with future plans for global expansion. Our vision behind the creation of Ospree was to bring all existing duty-free stores under a single, unified brand identity.

The brand ‘Ospree’ represents a contemporary, customer-centric approach to redefining the shopping experience at duty-free outlets.

Ospree serves as MTRPL’s strategy to consolidate its duty-free operations across locations in Mumbai, Thiruvananthapuram, Amritsar, Lucknow, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, and Mangaluru under one cohesive brand. By doing so, we aim to create a seamless and consistent experience for travellers, whether they are flying from Mumbai or Jaipur.

The brand identity of Ospree is tailored to meet the evolving expectations of modern, discerning travellers. Our goal is to make Ospree the ultimate destination for global travellers seeking a premium and elegantly curated shopping experience. Ospree seeks to transform the duty-free shopping landscape, offering a mix of luxury and convenience. With its carefully curated range of premium products and its focus on customer satisfaction, Ospree strives to create a luxurious and approachable atmosphere, redefining duty-free shopping in India.

What is the retail strategy adopted to grow liquor duty-free sales at your duty-free shops?

Ospree Duty Free has developed a multi-pronged strategy to significantly increase liquor sales. This approach is built on four main pillars: premium assortments, immersive retail experiences, competitive pricing, and simplified pre-order system. Additionally, we have largely expanded our single malt category and now house over 250 brands under one roof. Other introductions include various Japanese whiskey brands, Teremana tequila, Ardbeg, Idaya Rum, House of Suntory, D’YAVOL and more.

Exclusive Product Curation:

Ospree collaborates with major global brands such as Diageo and Moët Hennessy to offer a wide selection of premium and rare liquors, including exclusive duty-free releases. These premium assortments are particularly attractive to international travellers who are often on the lookout for unique spirits that aren’t available in regular retail outlets. By curating a high-end selection, we drive both impulse buys as well as planned purchases by knowledgeable customers.

Immersive Shopping Experience:

Enhancing the customer experience is one of Ospree’s top priorities. We have designed our stores to offer an immersive shopping experience with interactive displays, expert-led product recommendations, and tastings.

These experiential elements elevate the shopping journey, transforming it from a transactional experience to a memorable one. Additionally, our personalised “White Glove Service” caters to high-spending customers, offering them tailored advice and ensuring a seamless, premium shopping experience.

Competitive Pricing and Promotions:

Ospree’s tax-free pricing offers significant value across its liquor portfolio, making it an attractive proposition for travellers. Furthermore, our ongoing promotions – such as “Buy More, Save More” and the “Shop and Win” contest, where travellers can win luxury prizes – have been highly effective in boosting customer engagement and driving larger purchases.

Digital Pre-Order Simplified:

Adani One’s pre-order service offers our customers an even more convenient and rewarding duty-free shopping experience. The platform makes it easier than ever for travellers to browse our wide variety of products, secure the best deals, enjoy ease of product selection, receive additional pre-order discounts, and skip the queues. This innovative partnership is a major step toward transforming duty-free shopping into a seamless and stress-free experience for all travellers.

By combining these strategies, Ospree has successfully established itself as a leader in duty-free liquor sales, strengthening both customer loyalty and sales growth.

Is there any pricing strategy in place? How cheap is it to buy in Indian duty-free than in the local market?

Yes, Ospree has a robust pricing strategy that emphasises the authenticity and originality of the products it offers. All products sold at Ospree Duty Free either come directly from the country of origin or are obtained through official brand channels, ensuring their authenticity.

Our pricing is highly competitive, with products available at an average of 20-30% lower than those found in downtown retail stores. This is a significant draw for international travellers who are looking to purchase premium products at better prices. By offering a combination of tax-free pricing and exclusive duty-free deals, Ospree provides an unmatched shopping experience.

How has Ospree Duty Free grown in the Indian Travel Retail Market?

Ospree Duty Free has experienced tremendous growth in the Indian travel retail market, driven by several key factors. First, we have launched over 100 initiatives aimed at accelerating growth by revisiting what we call the 7 Ps of Duty-Free Excellence: Product, Price, Premiumisation, Penetration, Presentation, Promotion, and People. Additionally, we have expanded into six seaports, including Mundra and Krishnapatnam (recently launched), with Kattupalli and Hazira set to open by the end of June, followed by Dhamra and Gangavaram by the end of July 2024. These new locations will cover a total retail space of 6,500 sq ft and serve over 600 vessels monthly. They will offer a wide selection of international duty-free goods, including imported liquor, confectionery, perfumes, travel accessories, and destination-specific products.

Second, our strategic expansion into major international airports has enabled us to capture a larger share of the travelling public. By focussing on creating a premium shopping experience, particularly with our diverse range of luxury products, we have successfully appealed to customers seeking a more sophisticated and refined retail experience.

Our attention to detail in product curation and customer service has translated into increased foot traffic and higher sales. By continually refining our offerings and focussing on customer satisfaction, we have been able to differentiate ourselves from competitors in the Indian duty-free market.

How are luxury spirits performing in the Indian duty-free market?

Luxury spirits have consistently outperformed other categories in the Indian duty-free market. Ospree’s commitment to offering a broad selection of over 275 single malts, paired with competitive pricing, has made it a go-to destination for liquor enthusiasts.

The demand for luxury spirits has been driven by several factors, including the rise in disposable incomes and the increasing number of international travellers. The appeal of exclusive, high-end brands, available at competitive prices, has ensured that luxury spirits remain one of our fastest-growing categories.

Aside from whisky, which other liquor segments are doing well in the Indian market?

In addition to whisky, other liquor segments such as vodka, gin, and tequila are performing well at Ospree Duty Free, collectively contributing around 4-5% of our liquor sales.

In recent months, Ospree Duty Free has seen remarkable growth in its tequila category, reflecting our commitment to offering a diverse and high-quality selection of spirits. Tequila was introduced at Ospree Duty Free Mumbai 12 months ago and now accounts for 7% of the total alcohol sales at that location. Don Julio 1942 has become one of our top three SKUs. High-end brands like Clase Azul, Patrón El Cielo, and the soon-to-arrive Avión Reserva Cristalino are further establishing tequila as a lifestyle statement in India.

One of the standout additions has been Teremana Tequila, which we are excited to introduce for the first time in India. This premium, small-batch tequila is crafted with a strong emphasis on sustainability and quality, and its arrival at Ospree underscores our commitment to offering unique, global products to travellers. By expanding our tequila selection, we continue to cater to evolving customer preferences and enhance the shopping experience at our stores.

Additionally, we have observed significant growth in our wine category, particularly with French and Australian wines, which are growing at a rate of 7-8% month-on-month.

Champagnes, along with red and white wines such as Bordeaux, Moët & Chandon, and Dom Pérignon, are among the most popular items. Overall, the wine and champagne category has experienced over 50% growth, further diversifying our liquor offerings.

Flemingo has a strong presence in the Indian duty-free market. How has Ospree leveraged its expertise?

Ospree has effectively leveraged Flemingo’s extensive experience in the Indian duty-free market to optimise its own operations. By incorporating Flemingo’s best practices in retail and customer service, Ospree has enhanced the overall shopping experience while customising it to meet the specific needs of its customer base.

How have Flemingo and Ospree grown in recent years?

Cannot comment on Flemingo’s growth. But Ospree has experienced significant growth in the Indian travel retail market. The rebranding has played a pivotal role in this growth, allowing us to expand our duty-free operations and offer a more diverse range of luxury and premium products. By focussing on creating a seamless, upscale shopping experience, we have been able to attract a wider range of customers and increase our market share in a highly competitive industry.

How many airports does Adani Enterprises operate in India?

Adani Enterprises currently operates seven airports across India. These include major airports in Mumbai, Trivandrum, Ahmedabad, Lucknow, Mangalore, Jaipur, and Amritsar. Additionally, Adani operates three seaports: Mundra, Krishnapatnam, and Hazira, further showcasing its extensive presence in India’s infrastructure sector.

How large is the Indian luxury spirits market in duty-free?

The Indian luxury spirits market within duty-free continues to experience impressive growth. Brands like Indri and Jaisalmer have become star performers at Ospree, while Indian liquor brands such as Paul John, Old Monk, Rampur, Amrut, and Stranger & Sons are gaining global recognition. These brands contribute around 5% of our total liquor sales.

As more Indian travellers venture abroad and their disposable incomes increase, the demand for luxury spirits continues to rise, creating favourable market conditions for Ospree to expand its footprint in this segment.

Does Ospree offer special promotions to boost Indian premium spirits at major international airports in India?

Yes, Ospree has implemented several promotional initiatives to highlight Indian premium spirits. These promotions include exclusive discounts, high-visibility promotional areas within stores, and limited-edition releases. Some recent highlights include the launch of Idaaya Rum and exclusive releases from Ardbeg Circus, which have garnered attention from travellers.

These initiatives have not only increased awareness of Indian premium spirits, but have also encouraged travellers to explore the rich heritage and craftsmanship behind these products.

What are your expansion plans for the Indian market?

Ospree is actively pursuing expansion plans, which include increasing its portfolio of luxury brands and exploring opportunities to acquire non-Adani airports for duty-free operations. Our goal is to further establish Ospree as a premier destination for luxury shopping, both within India and globally.

What are your sales in terms of volumes and value?

Ospree primarily focusses on value over volume, as sales vary based on the demand for specific categories. Ospree Duty Free has achieved unprecedented growth (almost twice pax growth) in the last FY 23–24.

Ospree Duty Free FY 24 Business Highlights:

YOY Sales Growth: 44%, YOY Pax Growth: 23% and SPP Growth: 15%.Additionally, departure sales grew three times the PAX growth. We also have observed a 30% increase in the average sales per passenger. Our luxury sector has also expanded, growing from 7% last year to 20% this year. 

Radico scaling New Heights every year

Incorporated in 1943, Radico Khaitan is one of the most recognised Indian Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL) brands in India, scaling new heights every year. It has achieved many milestones in its over eight decades of existence. One of the milestones is that seven of its brands are recognised as million-dollar successes. Its vodka brand – Magic Moments – is making waves, having captured an impressive 60% of the market share. In the luxury gin category, Jaisalmer has garnered 50% market share and is blazing guns. Ambrosia spoke to the Chief Operating Officer at Radico Khaitan, 
Amar Sinha giving insights into how the company is looking at future growth. 

Since rejoining Radico Khaitan, what changes have you brought in the company?

When I rejoined Radico Khaitan, the aim was crystal clear – we were focussing on our strategic goals of strengthening market position and driving long-term growth. To align with our core business strategy, my team and I worked extensively on developing operational excellence. From product development to market expansion, the idea was to go all out, and that’s exactly what we did – We streamlined operations, introduced new brands and innovated new variants while catering to the growing trend of premiumisation. Massive efforts were made to expand the company’s market presence, and we worked on integrating advanced technology across business operations, smoothening our manufacturing prowess. 

What was the thought process and strategy behind these changes?

The idea and the objective were clear – Making Radico the largest, most successful and a profitable IMFL company of India. 

Distribution is the key to this business apart from the quality product and pricing, how was this achieved?

Distribution is indeed a crucial component of Radico’s success, and the company has implemented several strategies to optimise its distribution network. Our distribution strength is underpinned by a robust network of over 80,000 retail outlets. We have systematically categorised our Off-Trade and On-Trade outlets, allowing for tailored strategies that address the unique needs of each category. 

Our on-ground sales team undergoes regular and comprehensive training programmes. These initiatives are designed to enhance their skills, ensure they remain abreast of industry best practices, and effectively represent our brand.

What is the current overall volume for the company and what is the company turnover? 

In FY2024, we reported a gross turnover of 15,483 crores. Our net sales went up to 4118 crores, out of which our Prestige & Above brands showed a significant volume growth of 20.3% (Y-o-Y) garnering sale of 11.26 million cases reaching a 68.5% in value. 

How have the brands performed over the years, under your leadership? 

We have achieved significant milestones, with seven of our brands now recognised as million-dollar successes, many of which have attained notable global rankings across various segments.

Our flagship brand, Magic Moments, has captured an impressive 60% of the market share in the vodka category, establishing itself as a dominant force. Similarly, Morpheus has risen to command 65% of the super-premium brandy segment, reinforcing our position in the high-end spirits market. Jaisalmer has also made remarkable strides, securing a substantial 50% market share in the luxury gin category.

Additionally, Royal Ranthambore has achieved extraordinary 2X growth, becoming the fastest-growing brand in the semi-luxury whisky segment. Notably, it is the first Indian brand to be priced above the best-selling Scotch whisky in India, a testament to its rising prestige and consumer appeal.

These accomplishments reflect our unwavering commitment to excellence and our strategic vision for expanding our brand portfolio on a global scale.

Radico has been able to successfully create wealth for its investors, what reason would you attribute to that? 

Our growth is a testament to the strength of our brands, the exceptional quality of our blends, and the strong acceptance by our customers. These factors have not only driven our business success, but have also created substantial value for our stakeholders. Central to this success is the excellence of our team, whose dedication and professionalism have been pivotal in achieving our goals. Their unwavering commitment to high standards and continuous improvement has set us apart in a competitive market. 

Additionally, the support and visionary leadership of Abhishek Khaitan, Managing Director Radico Khaitan Limited, has been instrumental in guiding our strategic direction and fostering an environment where innovation and collaboration thrive. This cohesive effort has propelled us forward and solidified our position as a leader in the industry. 

Ian Macleod: From India to the World

Plan to launch exceptional Single Malt from India, date not finalised yet

The Ian MacLeod family, known for their unwavering commitment to excellence, is on the brink of launching a Single Malt from India. Although the launch date remains undecided, the legacy that has driven four generations of the Russell family—the principle that there can be “no compromise on quality”—continues to guide the company. This dedication has positioned Ian MacLeod as the 10th largest Scotch whisky company globally, boasting some of the world’s most renowned brands. 

During a recent visit to their distillery in Scotland, I had the opportunity to sit down with Leonard Russell, Managing Director of Ian MacLeod. Our conversation revealed the company’s ambitious plans for India, highlighting the country’s rapidly evolving market, the impressive talent pool, sustainable practices and the exciting new distillery in Una, nestled in the Himalayas.

Trilok Desai in Edinburgh

A Glance Back: The History of Ian MacLeod

Before diving into our conversation, it’s essential to understand the history of Ian MacLeod. Founded on October 1st, 1933, the company traces its roots to Leonard Russell Senior, who established his whisky brokerage in 1936. Three decades later, the Russell family acquired Ian MacLeod & Co Ltd, with Peter Russell taking the helm as Chairman and Leonard Russell as Managing Director. The Russell family’s pursuit of perfection soon earned Ian MacLeod a reputation for producing whisky of exacting standards — because great whisky doesn’t come easily.

Today, after more than 80 years, Ian MacLeod has expanded its footprint to include five distilleries in Scotland, with a sixth under construction in Una, Himachal Pradesh, India. Under Leonard Russell’s leadership, the company has charted a meticulous roadmap for global expansion, focusing on carving a niche rather than pursuing mass production.

Peter Russell, the company’s visionary Chairman, passed away last year, leaving behind an enviable portfolio of 34 products, including Glengoyne, Tamdhu, Smokehead and Edinburgh Gin to name a few. Each of these award-winning brands, though distinct in flavour and character, is crafted with the same passion and commitment to quality.

Passion and Precision

Leonard Russell, who joined the family business in 1989, exudes passion and an unwavering commitment to quality. Under his stewardship, Ian MacLeod has transformed from a spirit blender and whisky broker into a fully integrated distiller, blender, and bottler, acquiring three distilleries—Glengoyne in 2003, Tamdhu in 2011, and Edinburgh Gin in 2016.

So, why is Ian MacLeod venturing into India, especially when they’re already thriving? Russell’s vision is clear: to create a Single Malt brand that will make India proud on the world stage. This venture is not about capturing the mass market but about delighting the discerning Indian consumer who appreciates the unique offerings that India can bring to the table.

Tamdhu Single Malt

India’s Growing Thirst for Single Malt

“India has a large population that favours branded spirits, unlike the Chinese and other Asians who prefer white spirits,” Russell explains. “As the Indian economy develops, so does the taste for Single Malts. India is crying out for the very best single malt whisky, and with our expertise from Scotland, we are poised to meet that demand.”

Although it may seem that Ian MacLeod is a newcomer to India, the company has actually been present in the country for two decades. Now, Russell believes, the timing is perfect. “The demand for the very best is there, and it’s our intention to deliver just that. We’re committed to creating a Single Malt whisky in India, using local ingredients, to satisfy the growing number of consumers who are genuinely interested in quality.”

Russell’s confidence in their India plans is palpable. “We’ve begun distilling some of the finest Single Malts in India, leveraging our expertise in oak casks and warehouse design to ensure that the maturation process is perfect.”

The Road Ahead: Quality Over Speed

When asked about the timeline for launching the new malt, Russell is clear: “We have no plans to reveal a brand launch date just yet. Our priority is to perfect the quality of the whisky. We’re sampling different casks, monitoring the maturation process, and comparing it to our Scotch maturation in Scotland. We’re not in a rush — we’ll launch when the whisky is at its peak.”

While the focus on quality is understandable, there’s no denying the market potential waiting to be tapped. Russell notes, “It’s incredible to see the growth of Indian Single Malts. There are some very good brands emerging from India, and it’s encouraging to see the market develop both domestically and internationally.”

A Distillery in the Himalayas: The Perfect Location

Though tight-lipped about investment figures, Russell expresses his satisfaction with the company’s investment in India. “It went over budget, but if you’re going to do it, you have to do it right.” The distillery in Pandoga, Una, Himachal Pradesh, is nearing completion, and as for the malt, no brand name has been chosen yet. Russell reiterates that their focus is on creating a Single Malt that will make India proud on the world stage.

The distillery’s location aligns perfectly with Ian MacLeod’s sustainable practices as well. “Though small, it’s perfectly formed,” says Russell. “We’re using hydropower from the Sutlej River, and we have access to excellent water sources. My dream is to open the distillery to visitors so they can see how we create exceptional brands.”

Glengoyne Single Malt – Aged 30 Years

A Niche Strategy: Quality Over Quantity

When pressed about the distillery’s capacity and market ambitions, Russell draws an analogy: “Our capacity will be similar to our distilleries in Scotland, like Glengoyne and Rosebank — enough to supply the discerning market, but not too large. We’re not aiming to be mass producers; we’re focused on creating a premium, luxury Single Malt for India that can compete on the world stage.”

Ian MacLeod’s strategy in India is clear and measured. “We’re not going to produce a million cases. If we reach 100,000 or 200,000 cases, we’ll be very happy. For us, it’s not about volume — it’s about ensuring the product is exceptional and winning the confidence of consumers, step by step.”

The Whisky and Scottish Lobsters Analogy

Russell offers a fascinating comparison between whisky maturation and the growth of Scottish lobsters. “A Scottish lobster from the cold northern waters, weighing one kilo, is likely 7 or 8 years old. In contrast, a lobster from warmer southern European waters will be only 1.5 years old at the same weight. Scottish lobsters, like well-matured whisky, develop a deeper, more complex flavour over time. Similarly, our distillery’s location in the cooler Himalayan climate is ideal for slower maturation, which results in a more rounded and complex whisky.”

When I mentioned Pernod Ricard’s construction of Asia’s largest distillery in Nagpur and Diageo’s two Single Malt brands in India, Russell was emphatic: “We’re not looking to be that big. We’re not interested in competing in the IMFL (Indian Made Foreign Liquor) market. We’re focused on creating the best Single Malt, and we have the expertise to do just that.”

Exports and Three Year Maturation

Ian MacLeod has clear plans to export their Indian Single Malt. “Indians love to travel, and there’s a large expatriate community around the world. We certainly have plans to export.”

Russell also emphasizes the importance of adhering to the three-year maturation requirement. “We won’t launch by this Christmas. We’re committed to the legal requirement of three years of maturation, which is standard worldwide. I can wait three years — after all, we wait 12 years for Single Malts in Scotland.”

Russell praises the talent in India, noting that the company is recruiting the best local distillers from Himachal Pradesh. “We’re excited to share our knowledge from Scotland with the team in India, and we’re eager to learn from each other.”

Copper Pot Stills at the Ian MacLeod distillery

Craftsmanship from Scotland, Tailoured for India

Regarding production equipment, Russell mentions that the stills, which are crucial for creating the flavour in the new spirit, are being precisely crafted in Scotland and shipped to India. “The rest of the production equipment is being made by craftsmen in India to our exact specifications,” he adds.

Russell also stresses the importance of the three-year maturation rule, which is universally accepted in the Scotch Whisky Act and in the US. He expresses a desire to see similar standards applied in India to protect consumers and maintain the integrity of the whisky industry.

Looking ahead, Russell is hopeful that Indian Single Malt distillers will form an association and establish a voluntary code to safeguard consumer trust and the quality of the product.

As our conversation wrapped up, Russell reflected on the challenges and opportunities ahead. “We’re here to create something special—something that will make India proud. And I’m confident that with our experience and commitment to quality, we’ll do just that.”This journey from Scotland to India, steeped in tradition and driven by innovation, is set to bring the world a new Single Malt that reflects the best of both worlds.

Whyte & Mackay: Looking to Craft a Legacy in India’s Evolving Whisky Market

As the Indian whisky market evolves with the introduction of newer and more premium products, Indian consumers are increasingly gravitating toward ultra-premium spirits. Whyte & Mackay (W&M), originally acquired by USL (later Diageo) and eventually sold to the Philippines-based Emperador Distilleries, has made its offerings available in India through VBev. In a conversation with Bhavya Desai, James Cordiner, International Malt Specialist at W&M, and Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO, AWS Global and VBev, shared perspectives on their portfolio, market strategy and future plans. Excerpts:

Whyte & Mackay’s current portfolio in India spans both the ultra-premium and premium segments. The lineup includes the renowned Dalmore single malt, available in age statements of 12, 15, and the Port Reserve edition, while the premium range features Jura single malt, offered in 10- and 12-year-old variants.

James Cordiner, International Malt Specialist at W&M

In addition to Dalmore and Jura, the company plans to launch the Tamnavulin single malt at the end of this year or early next year, with Fettercairn single malt also in the pipeline.

James Cordiner, who recently joined W&M, is no stranger to the Indian market, given his previous tenure at Bacardi. He is impressed by India’s passion for whisky. “It’s a huge whisky market and one that’s growing rapidly as consumers become more adventurous and curious,” he observes.

Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO, AWS Global and VBev

Both James and Sumedh recognize that while Indian consumers are leaning toward premium spirits, Dalmore is positioned at a higher price point (₹14,300 per bottle in Mumbai). Nevertheless, they are optimistic that consumers will connect with the brand’s heritage, craftsmanship, and royal legacy dating back to 1839. James emphasizes that the cask selection and meticulous production process are what set these whiskies apart.

Despite the competition in the segment, Sumedh is confident that W&M’s products can carve out their own niche, particularly with the rise in consumers’ purchasing power. For those who find Dalmore’s price point steep, Jura offers a more accessible option.

Currently, the brand’s strategy includes advocacy and education initiatives targeted at on-trade establishments, with activities expected to commence soon. W&M products are now available in approximately 20 tier A and B cities, and they are also looking to go more vertical in the States that they are already available in. For instance, in Maharashtra –  expanding to other cities like Nagpur, Pune, Kolhapur etc apart from Mumbai. Although the top line products might not be made available in these markets, but they tend to surprise W&M in terms of aspiration and growth.

But growing that market comes with its challenges and fluctuating price points, shifting regulations in each State hamper the expanding market reach. Additionally, securing sufficient supply quotas for wider distribution also remains a concern, which a more streamlined regulatory framework could address.

Sumedh mentions an example: if a regulator requires a barcode to be repositioned on the bottle, it’s difficult to implement such changes after the labels have already been customized. A standardized policy would simplify these processes and accelerate growth across the segment.

James admires the progress of Indian single malts, noting, “You’ve got some fantastic whiskies being produced in India.” He points out that Scotland’s cold climate allows for extended maturation periods, resulting in more complex and nuanced flavour profiles that can develop over decades. By contrast, India’s warmer climate accelerates maturation, but might limit the depth of flavours that can be achieved within 10 to 12 years. Nonetheless, he believes that India’s single malt journey will play a key role in shaping the country’s luxury whisky market for the future.

Interestingly, the demand for luxury products is surging in smaller cities, with on-trade partners requesting more stock of premium offerings like Dalmore. Clearly, Dalmore is being positioned as an aspirational brand, catering to discerning consumers who appreciate fine spirits. But interestingly, their messaging isn’t solely targeted at men, but also at women who have reached a certain level of accomplishment in their professional and personal journeys. Moving forward, the brand plans to conduct more high-profile events to engage with affluent consumers and reinforce brand loyalty.

For those already familiar with single malts and seeking an elevated experience, W&M aims to meet their expectations. Even with Dalmore’s luxury pricing, Sumedh doesn’t see this as a major hurdle. He anticipates that as duties gradually decrease over time, products like Dalmore will become more accessible to a broader audience, growing India’s journey further.

It is clear that Whyte & Mackay’s legacy, which is built on over 175 years of whisky-making expertise, steeped in tradition and a pursuit of quality, has grown into one of the most respected names in Scotch whisky, renowned for its craftsmanship and innovative blending techniques. From the luxurious Dalmore with its rich heritage dating back to 1839, to the adventurous Jura and the approachable yet complex Tamnavulin, their current whisky portfolio offers whisky enthusiasts an option at every stage.

As the Indian whisky market continues to evolve, W&M’s commitment to delivering exceptional products, combined with its focus on storytelling and education, positions it in a strong footing for the future.

UP Distillers’ Association: Navigating Agriculture, Advocating Diversity, Inspiring Change

With the Government of India going aggressive in the E-20 blending target, availability of maize will be critical as presently India has limited maize production, needing a paradigm shift in quality upliftment, states the Secretary General of UP Distillers’ Association, Rajneesh Agarwal.

Mr. Agarwal mentioned that the Union Ministry of Agriculture had advised State Governments to plan and promote cultivation of maize in areas around 50-100 km of distillery through ‘special projects’ under the Rastriya Krishi Vikas Yojana (RKVY)/ Public–Private Partnership for integrated Agriculture Value Chain Development (PPPAVCD) scheme.

The UP Government, he added, has been in the forefront to increase maize production, allocating the budget for the same. The UPDA, he reiterated had extended its support and cooperation to the government programme and had decided to chalk out a roadmap together to take the campaign forward involving all stakeholders namely Farmers Producers Organisations (FPOs); seed manufacturers; sowing & harvesting machine manufacturers and all other concerned in developing the eco-system. 

Mr. Agarwal pointed out that the key areas to work on in UP included increasing crop intensity; developing high yielding varieties; crop diversification with special incentive & subsidy for machinery in maize cultivation / harvesting; incentives to farmers in catchment areas; replicating the model prevalent in Gujarat; technology infusion initiatives; developing a dedicated online market like e-NAM for maize growers to ensure better pricing; and direct contact between farmers and industries.

As regards the efforts of UPDA, the Secretary General mentioned that the apex state body has been representing the distillery industry since 1983, rendering advocacy role on policy & regulatory matters and getting official recognition from numerous state & central government bodies.

Mr. Agarwal stated that as an active participant in the UP liquor growth story, UPDA would stand tall with unwavering dedication to quality and innovation. Recently, UPDA signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with the Indian Agricultural Research Institute (IARI) and with the Indian Institute of Maize Research. The prime objective is to undertake large-scale evaluation of newly developed hybrid maize varieties which promise higher ethanol recovery and improved protein quality in Distillers Dried Grains with Solubles (DDGS). “We are glad to know that the UP Government has initiated steps on maize production allocating around ₹30 Cr. budget.”

The Secretary General also mentioned that the UPDA’s leadership team attended the Global Ethanol Summit in Washington in Oct’2023 organised by the US Grains Council a premier body under the US Department of Agriculture. USA is a leader in corn and ethanol production. Given the importance of maize as a potential future feedstock in India, the USGC, he said, was keen on partnering with UPDA for development of the corn programme. Following up on that a groundbreaking MoU was signed between UP Distillers’ Association (UPDA) and the U.S. Grains Council (USGC) in New Delhi on April 24, 2024.

Mr. Agarwal said the future vision of this understanding is to take a deep-dive in to the Indian agrarian space & ecosystem to, establish innovative farming & logistical practices from latest US / Global Technologies for integration of higher ethanol blends into the ecosystem, training for maximisation of Corn value ethanol co-products, leveraging digital platforms etc.

William Grant continues to grow with a positive momentum

With an evolving Indian consumer and alcobev market, William Grant & Sons has one of the most enviable portfolios in the industry. From award winning whiskies to popular gins, the company has been enjoying a healthy growth for the past few years. Sachin Mehta, Country Director, William Grant & Sons spoke to Bhavya Desai about the Indian market and the future roadmap for the company. Excerpts:

The overall business has been good for William Grants & Sons (WGS). It’s been growing at a healthy pace informs Sachin Mehta, the Country Director of WGS. The past 3–4-years have been particularly positive as Indian consumers are seeking and appreciating more premium and high-quality and prestigious products. “Our portfolio allows for a great fit to this trend of growing premium and luxury consumption growth in India,” he adds.

And if this trend is anything to go by then the future surely looks bright, with the Indian consumer looking towards more premiumisation, especially since WGS’ portfolio includes some of the most popular brands on the global stage. This includes brands like Grant’s Scotch Whisky, Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, Hendrick’s Gin, Glenfiddich Single Malt Scotch Whisky and The Balvenie Single Malt Scotch Whisky. Sachin is also delighted to see brands like Hendrick’s, which has led, created and established the premium gin category, on the other hand, Monkey Shoulder has trended very well with its unique premium offering for the young and aware consumer. “We are blessed that our brands and quality liquid is loved by consumers here.”

Despite the popularity and the evolving pallet of the Indian consumer, WGS has no plans of creating specific products for the Indian pallet, not for the near future at least. “Our products have found a good preference to the Indian consumer’s pallet. The Indian consumers now have an evolved preference in line with the most developed in the world. At William Grant & Sons, we are committed to quality premium offerings to consumers and our current portfolio fits well to the evolving preferences of consumers.”

What’s interesting is that despite have a more premium portfolio, WGS has been successfully targetting the more affluent consumer, and the strategy is simple, with the Indian consumer evolving and seeking premiumisation across categories, from watches to cars to high-end spirits etc. – their brands cater to this growing demand for luxury products with their quality liquid.

Combine that with special liquids like the limited-edition releases and aged expressions, offered to collectors and explorers, better availability, an increasingly aware premium consumer and the retail experience have been key drivers in the recent past.

At the company’s UP bottling plant, the company bottles the two variants of Grant’s currently in India – Grant’s Triple Wood and Grant’s Distinction, in the blended scotch whisky category. Overall Grant’s continues to grow with a positive momentum with a dynamic play between the variants depending on the RTM of the state. “We are committed to continue to offer more variants to our consumer on Grants in the future.”

Undoubtedly, India is an important market for WGS not only because it’s growing, but also from the economic front and consumers preferences, tastes and premiumisation. India is now an important part of the global plans across categories and brands. “For example, we recently introduced the Grand Series, with Glenfiddich 21-year-old “Gran Reserve” and Glenfiddich 26-year-old “Grande Couronne”, Glenfiddich 29-Year-Old “Grand Yozakura” and the Time series with Glenfiddich 30-Year-Old – some of them limited editions and some of them rare and unique variants.”

Similarly, there are additional variants being introduced on The Balvenie Range as well. While many of these are still limited and allocated quantities – such variants now being offered to India reflects their commitment and focus on India as a market.

“We have also introduced Smokey Monkey, a new variant of Monkey Shoulder Blended Malt Whisky which was highly appreciated for its Smokey taste amongst our consumers. Similarly, Hendrick’s brings its limited-edition variants from the “Cabinet of Curiosity” to explore some curious offerings in India. Starting with Hendrick’s Midsummer Solstice in 2021, followed by Hendrick’s Lunar, Hendrick’s Neptunia, and, most recently, Hendrick’s Flora Adora.”

‘Drink better, not More’ is our Vision – Hina Nagarajan, MD & CEO, Diageo India

Taking over the reins of one of the biggest companies in the market, can never be an easy task, especially when the daunting objective is to ensure double-digit growth, drive revenue and increase profits. Add to that, the first woman to lead the business, but Hina Nagarajan, Managing Director and CEO, Diageo India has not only successfully achieved this, but also surpassed many other feats. She speaks to Bhavya Desai about her journey, future objectives and more. Excerpts:

Since you took over, you’ve made incredible strides towards ensuring that the company becomes net debt free. How have you managed that?

The task ahead of me when I took charge in 2021 was to bring our Diageo India business on a sustained double-digit growth path, especially driving revenue and profitable share in the premium and prestige segments of the Indian alcohol market. Together with my leadership team, we made some strategic choices to win in this decade and beyond.

I led the execution of our portfolio reshape with the objective of accelerating premiumisation-led growth while delivering our guidance of mid to high teens margin. We completed the strategic review of our Popular brand portfolio, resulting in the sale of 32 mass brands and franchising of 11 brands in September 2022.   

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Box Item:

  • Our overall business growth has tripled in the period from 2021-23 vs. 2016-21.
  • Our premium portfolio growth rates have doubled over the same period, P&A is 86% of our portfolio now
  • Our brands are performing competitively in their respective segments 2-3 years in a row,
  • And we have doubled the Market Capitalisation of USL since 2021.

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Our commitment to premiumisation is evident in our investments over the past years. We’ve introduced new products and innovations such as Royal Challenge American Pride, Epitome Reserve’s second limited edition of Peated Indian Single Malt in Goa, and Godawan, a unique single malt from Rajasthan. Additionally, our minority stake in Nao Spirits, the makers of Hapusa and Greater Than, underscores our strategy to grow in the luxury and premium segments, particularly in scotch, where we lead the market.

We also redefined our offerings in the Upper Prestige segment with unique products that resonate with new consumer trends. Furthermore, our efforts to premiumise and reposition brands in the Lower & Mid Prestige segments, such as McDowell’s No.1 Whisky and Royal Challenge Whisky, are part of our strategy to respond to evolving consumer needs.

With the consumer at the heart of our business, the strength of our reshaped portfolio, and the investments we are making to accelerate our strategic priorities, we have been able to deliver our mission of profitable double-digit growth for our business and in the process, wiped out our cumulative losses and declared dividend for the first time since acquisition a decade ago.

Having set on this path, what is Diageo’s next objective – in the coming years?

We feel extremely positive and excited about the future of the alcobev industry in India. The biggest transformation that we see is a whole new generation entering adulthood driven by a different, positive, and progressive set of values. India is in the middle of deep societal change led by women, youth and boom towns. This along with a massive growing need to ‘drink better, not more’ across all segments, is in line with our vision for the category.  

The premiumisation trend will continue to stay strong with rising affluence. By 2030, 45% of Indian households (approx. 175 million households) will be in the upper mid and high-income groups. We see a big opportunity, not only to leverage this trend through our incredible portfolio of global and IMFL brands, but also to position Indian whisky as a characterful, distinct, high-quality offering by bringing the best of people, processes, and ingredients together to create bespoke liquids that are ‘Made in India’ for the world. 

Our mission is to be a top CPG (Consumer Packaged Goods) company in India delivering sustained double digit topline growth with mid to high teen margins and long-term value to all our stakeholders. With this new strategy, we aim to deliver our Mission through 3 pillars that form the essence of our mission:

  • Reshaping our portfolio with a focus on accelerating premiumisation-led growth, while delivering our guidance of mid to high teens margins.  
  • Creating an Organisation of the Future – We are building a future-ready organisation by investing in our talent, introducing market-leading policies and driving digital capabilities.
  • Defining and executing an ambitious role for Diageo in Society 2030 focusing on promoting responsible consumption, championing inclusion & diversity, and pioneering grain-to-glass sustainability which includes preserving water for life, accelerating to a low-carbon world and lastly, becoming sustainable by nature.

Keeping our customers as our main focus, along with the reshaped portfolio of our products and the investments we’re making to accelatate our strategic goals forward, we are confident of  growing our business in a steady and sustainable way.

How has the consumer landscape changed over the years in the industry?

India is in the middle of deep societal change led by rising affluence, women, youth and boom towns. The biggest transformation that we see is a whole new generation entering adulthood driven by a different, positive, and progressive set of values. This trend expands to middle India and boom towns which are undergoing a remarkable transformation, fuelled by high aspirations and digital revolution where consumers are looking for premium brands, products, and experiences. The new consumer cohorts are driven by values of authenticity, individuality, local pride and collaboration with women building a more inclusive consumption narrative.

Digital has also been a big game changer. Most consumer journeys begin on digital with discovery, information, inspiration – informing them of their choices and behaviour and most of all aspiration and desire for what they want. If we look at the alcobev category, consumers are choosing different products for different occasions and need.

This means that repertoires are expanding from whisky to gin, vodka, rum, aperitifs, cocktails, etc. Consumers today choose to drink better, not more, leading to premiumisation of the alcobev category. At Diageo , we are responding to these structural shifts in consumer choices and behaviour, pivoted around premiumisation, wellbeing and sustainability. This new, changing, and vibrant India presents a huge opportunity for us.

You are the first woman to lead the business at the company. How do you think this encourages and inspires others across industries?

My appointment sparked interest and garnered positive attention, which reflects the breaking of traditional barriers especially in the alcohol beverage sector. As a woman CEO in alcobev,  traditionally a male dominated industry, I see this as an opportunity to change the paradigm of this industry to make it more inclusive and normalise the narrative.

Our efforts are making a difference, leading to an environment where joining our sector feels no different from any other industry for women. At Diageo India, our commitment lies in building a workplace where everyone feels included. 50% of our Executive Committee and 35% of our senior leadership team comprises of women. We believe that a diverse leadership helps create a more balanced and well represented workforce. We’re making this happen by welcoming women into various leadership positions, ensuring we drive change right from the top.

Seeing more women in our company is truly encouraging. Their presence brings fresh ideas and perspectives on how we approach our products, market them, and innovate. This enriches our connection with customers and broadens our talent base, helping us to stand out and succeed in a competitive market. And hopefully, this encourages and inspires others to do more.

With sustainability being a rising factor amongst consumers today, how is Diageo moving towards a more sustainable tomorrow?

We at Diageo strongly believe that social and environmental impact and profitability are not two separate goals but rather interlinked. As one of the world’s largest beverage alcohol producers, we believe that we are ambassadors of our industry and aim to be the best we can – at work, at home, with friends, and in the communities we serve.

Sustainability is at the heart of our business strategy and is outlined in our Society 2030: Spirit of Progress ESG action plan. Our Society 2030 agenda is focussed on pioneering grain-to-glass sustainability, championing inclusion and diversity, and promoting responsible consumption.

Pioneering grain-to-glass sustainability plays a pivotal role in our Society 2030 goals and is embedded throughout the process and focusses on three key aspects; preserving water, lowering carbon emissions, and becoming sustainable by design.

In terms of preserving water we have overachieved our water replenishment target by 25% and three years ahead of our 2026 goals. We have improved our water use efficiency by 44% in our distilleries and 30% in our packaging processes, against the 2030 goal of 40%.

Women and girls are disproportionately affected when communities don’t have access to clean Water, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH) facilities. We’re investing in such projects to empower women by providing sustainable water access and rebalancing their societal roles in more than 30 villages.

At the state level, we have partnered with Forest Department in Rajasthan and Maharashtra for mass plantation projects to improve green cover, protect soil, improve percolation and support biodiversity. In Alwar we have initiated efforts for desilting ponds, constructing check dams, improving drainage systems, to name a few. Measures like maintaining Zero Liquid Discharge status, rainwater harvesting pits, and others were adopted. We have also launched an afforestation drive to plant 2 lakh trees to offset residual greenhouse gas emissions.

We are making good progress in reducing our carbon emissions, and have committed to becoming Net Zero by F26 in our direct operations by mitigating our Scope 1 & 2 emissions and reduce 50% of our Scope 3 emissions by 2030. Our sustained efforts have resulted in industry-recognitions by Sustainalytics recognising the company as a “Top-Rated ESG Performer for 2022 and 2023” and our Alwar unit in Rajasthan,

has achieved the Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) certification, making it the first distillery in Asia to attain this certification.

In our efforts to becoming sustainable by design,  we have removed mono cartons from 90% of our portfolio. In addition, we have introduced biodegradable packs as well as recyclable PETs in some of our brands and continue to expand it to others. This is aligned to our global mission to ensure 100% of our packaging is widely recyclable or reusable/compostable by 2030. Over 99% of materials used are recyclable. On glass, we have initiated light weighting of our bottles.

Our brands like ‘Signature by Nature’ uses 40% recycled glass for the glass bottle and is associated with Mangrove Plantation in Puri, Orissa where 30,000 Mangroves seedlings are being planted in five villages. These mangroves can sequester carbon up to 2-4 times faster than a mature tropical forest.

Our ESG agenda is owned by senior leadership levels including the board, which monitors the same through a CSR and ESG Committee. The ESG Index report we release annually highlights our progress mapped against each of the three pillars and we have witnessed remarkable achievements.

Our ambition is to be the forerunner in the Indian Consumer Product Goods (CPG) industry on ESG and create enterprise value.

What is Diageo’s roadmap for India with most companies betting big on the Indian markets? What is the next big product category that Diageo is focussing on for the coming years?

Diageo India is responding to structural shifts in consumer choices and behaviour, pivoted around growing affluence, premiumisation across categories, and quest for experiential and experimentation, through its refreshed business strategy focussed on premiumisation and focus on transformational innovation and renovation. We have a future back approach to our innovation pipeline and use a proprietory framework called Foresight to determine where trends will go few years from now.

It is for this reason that we have launched Royal Challenge American Pride which caters to the growing consumer preference for bourbon, renovated Signature to be the most sustainable brand in its segment , developed the Naya Sher campaign encouraging youth to take bold , confident steps forward for our Royal Challenge packaged drinking water as well as launched Walkers & Co – a platform to celebrate bold boundary pushers. We launched Don Julio tequila in the country in response to the growing traction for Tequila consumption in the country. We are also scaling up Baileys given the affinity for desserts in India.

We will continue to use Foresight to guide us on innovations for the future and bring the best of both our global, as well as Made in India portfolio, to cater to the evolving needs of Indian consumers.

While your association ISWAI has been representing centre and states for rationalisation of taxes including GST/Excise etc., do you expect centre to bring reform in the alcobev sector? How do you think this move will be beneficial?

ISWAI has been in talks with State Governments to rationalise high excise duties. It has made representations to the authorities time and again as manufacturers of alcohol beverages (Alco-Bev) continue to face shrinking margins due to high taxes, along with soaring inflation and import tariffs. The biggest barrier faced by the industry is freedom to price its brands. ISWAI continues to advocate for pricing freedom, especially for premium brands, as this will help the industry to overcome inflationary pressures.  There are also several other regulatory and operational barriers which hamper ease of doing business for the industry. We have seen positive steps from the government on resolving some of these issues. ISWAI will continue to work proactively with various government bodies on these matters and is hopeful that the state governments will consider a harmonised tax structure as well as an acceptable annual pricing mechanism for the sector and continue to support ease of doing business for our industry.

A Peek into the Whisky Whisperer’s World: Jim Murray Unfiltered

Jim Murray stands as a prominent figure and key player in the global whiskey scene, having held the title of the world’s first full-time whisky writer for over three decades. The 2024 release of his widely successful “The Whiskey Bible” marks the 20th anniversary of the publication. Maintaining a staunch commitment to independence, Jim fearlessly critiques those deserving of scrutiny and advocates for whiskies that were once overlooked or unfamiliar.

In the present day, the likes of Ardbeg, Pure Irish Pot Still, and Canadian and Japanese whiskies such as Yoichi and Yamazaki have gained widespread popularity, thanks in no small part to Jim’s daring efforts to bring them into the public eye. Despite facing criticism and occasional attempts at character assassination, Jim’s bold choices have significantly shaped the current whisky segment.

In a conversation with Ambrosia, Jim shared insights into his passion for the spirit, details about his personal life, encounters with setbacks and comebacks, and perspectives on emerging whisky trends and Indian distilleries.

What led to your transition from journalism to becoming the world’s first full-time whisky writer, and are there any interesting stories or experiences from your journey you’d like to share?

I began my career in journalism covering sports and general news, gradually diving into more intense subjects like murders and special investigations while working for national newspapers. Amidst these experiences, my first encounter with a distillery occurred in 1975 during a hitchhiking expedition across Scotland. Boarding a boat bound for Skye, I visited the Talisker distillery, and it literally changed my life.

The vibrant sensory details of the distillery – the colours, smells, sounds, and the meticulous process – left a lasting impression on me. As a journalist, I used to get to travel a lot. Tasting whisky straight from the barrel with its 60% alcohol content was a revelation, and it sparked a personal interest. From the age of 17, during my spare time, I started making personal notes on whiskies, differentiating their unique qualities. By 1989, I began writing and selling articles about whisky globally, all while maintaining my role as an investigative journalist.

In media publications, I noticed a gap in whisky coverage. Wine writers were handling whisky topics with incorrect terminology and descriptions. Convinced I knew more about whisky, I considered transitioning into whisky writing. This decision faced resistance, especially as it meant giving up a stable income. Despite the initial resistance from my wife, in 1992, I took the leap, becoming the world’s first full-time whisky writer.

Back then, there were no whisky festivals or visitor centers, maintaining a sense of mystique around the industry. Breaking into the scene was tough. For years, I earned little, even became a single parent. Despite financial challenges, I persevered, creating fresh content for the emerging market. The books I wrote brought in money, but research costs were high due to the lack of prior literature on the subject. Believing in the cause, I endured the financial strain, comparing it to the pain barrier in athletics. It’s been a journey with continuous challenges, drawing parallels to my days as a long-distance runner facing a tough race.

A pivotal moment occurred during a meeting with Jim Milne, a J&B revered blender, who has been blending since the 1950s. In a seminar he conducted, whiskies labelled X, Y, and Z were presented without disclosing the distillery names. Upon nosing one of the whiskies, I asserted, “This doesn’t belong in your blend; it’s Fettercairn.” To this, he acknowledged, “Indeed, that is Fettercairn, and it’s included here only because of an oversight.” By identifying a misplaced sample, I earned the blender’s respect and was urged by him to share my opinions on whisky. This encounter led to a realisation – my extensive self-guided apprenticeship in studying whiskies positioned me uniquely.

Unexpectedly discovering my heightened olfactory senses (got to know I had a unique skill set, ranking in the top 2% for sensitive noses), this breakthrough moment changed my perception, realising I could sense and appreciate whiskies in a distinctive way. I ventured into consulting as a blender, complementing my role as a writer. This unforeseen skill set, acknowledged by one of Scotland’s most respected blenders, allowed me to contribute to the whisky industry in ways I had never imagined.

What is your typical approach to whisky tasting? Are there specific methods or techniques you adhere to during the process?

My approach to whisky is akin to that of a blender. I first identify any flaws in the whisky before acknowledging its merits. This involves deducting points for aspects like added caramel, an imbalance of oak flavours that overpower the malt, and any weaknesses that detract from the overall quality of the whisky. I can discern whether a whisky has been meticulously crafted or hastily put together.

When it comes to public awareness, blind tastings are crucial to eliminate biases. People often have preconceived ideas about certain whiskies, which can influence their perception. Therefore, I conduct blind tastings to remove any biases and judge the whisky solely on its merits. When compiling my Whiskey Bible, I don’t taste blind as I need to consider the distillery’s style and whether the blender has captured its essence. I assess the whisky’s complexity and intended profile before making judgments.

My tasting method, dubbed the “Murray Method”, involves avoiding strong perfumes, water intake, and spicy foods to keep my senses sharp. Strong perfumes can interfere with the senses, affecting the ability to discern aromas accurately. Additionally, I avoid consuming spicy foods while working, ensuring my taste buds remain undisturbed and receptive. However, recognising the cultural practices, I understand that asking Indians not to eat spices isn’t practical, given their culinary preferences. In 1997, I authored “Jim Murray’s Complete Book of Whiskey: The Definitive Guide to the Whiskeys of the World”, which gained significant popularity, selling over a quarter million copies. While discrepancies in numbers and subsequent editions may have altered the count, the book’s success is evident.

I’ve come across articles critiquing the book “Whiskey Bible”, accusing it of being sexist. However, generally, I’ve noticed that descriptions of food in a sensual manner are common in many publications. How do you respond to this perspective?

You need to grasp the immense impact of this book. It sparked the rise of Indian whisky and catapulted Japanese whisky to new heights. I awarded World Whisky of the Year to a Japanese whisky, leading to a whopping 3 billion dollars in revenue for them. Despite this success, I personally didn’t gain financially because I don’t accept kickbacks. I maintain complete independence. However, there’s a phenomenon known as industrial espionage, where some individuals might see the power of this book as a threat.

This book is pivotal because, like food and drink share common ground: sight, smell, taste, and touch. These senses, when combined, create a sensual experience. If people in the industry argue that whisky isn’t sexy, they probably shouldn’t be part of it. As a writer, honesty is of utmost importance. The motto of the Whiskey Bible is “the truth, always above all”. Criticism requires integrity and candour.

Some distilleries hold a grudge against me because I refuse to engage in their marketing tactics or succumb to their influence. Despite my disdain for those attempting to control me, I remain impartial in assessing the quality of their whisky. I won’t conform to the prevailing trends, particularly the notion of labelling everything as an anti-feminist crime. Personally, my marriage met its demise when I embraced the role of a whisky writer, a sacrifice I made for my career. The constant globetrotting has hindered the possibility of forming lasting relationships. I’ve never remarried, but it’s not due to a lack of romantic inclinations. Unfortunately, my genuine love for others has been weaponised by jealous individuals aiming to undermine the influence of the Whiskey Bible. Frankly, I feel sorry for these people, in their pursuit to tarnish my reputation, reveal a certain poverty in their character.

During a recent visit to Kentucky, a woman expressed admiration for my writings on whisky, considering it one of the most beautiful things ever shared with her. The hypersensitive woke culture on certain social media platforms seizes any opportunity to unleash their destructive tendencies, fuelled by baseless hatred. Many of these individuals are familiar with my identity and knowledge of whisky, yet they target me simply because I’m a convenient male figure to attack. This trend reflects the fragility of Western society.

Watching a stunning sunset often sparks a longing for someone to share the experience. Similarly, I take pleasure in sharing my love and passion for whisky with the world. I want to introduce people to the finer things in life.

Jim Murray at the launch of Amrut Bagheera and Portonova

When comparing Indian whisky to traditional whisky-producing nations, do you observe any notable differences?

The primary distinction lies in the heat when comparing it to traditional whisky-making countries. The maturation process in cooler climates allows for an important element: time. This time factor plays a vital role as tannins and other components from the environment have the opportunity to integrate and blend seamlessly. In contrast, hotter countries face a more accelerated maturation process, making it challenging to achieve the desired balance. Balancing whisky in warmer climates requires more effort and skill. While some argue that water quality influences whisky, the key is ensuring water is free from contaminants like pesticides and iron deposits, which can discolour the whisky. Interestingly, despite the romanticised notions surrounding water sources, many Scotch whiskies use tap water.

Unlike the present era filled with marketing gimmicks, the industry in the late ’80s and ’70s was less saturated with such tactics. Kentuckians, for instance, boast about having the best whiskey due to their water source originating underground, having been there for centuries, dissolving limestone and aiding fermentation. This stands in contrast to other Scottish distilleries, although not Glenmorangie and Highland Park, two renowned Scottish distilleries, which also derive their water from limestone, similar to the Kentuckians. I advocate for focussing on the contents of the glass rather than getting swayed by marketing claims on labels.

What trends do you perceive in the whisky industry, in your view?

Looking back at the whisky industry’s history, it’s been characterised by cycles of growth and decline. In the 1980s, whisky consumption dwindled as it was perceived as a drink of the older generation, with younger drinkers favouring lighter spirits. A common joke was that one could spot a whisky drinker by looking at the obituary column, as they were diminishing in number. This decline in blended whisky consumption led to an excess of single malt whisky sitting idle in distillery warehouses. It was during this time that efforts to promote single malt whisky, spearheaded by individuals like Michael Jackson, began to gain traction, revitalising interest in the category.

Similar to the boom in distillery construction in the 1890s, the recent surge in new distillery openings has created a crowded market. However, the current global situation introduces uncertainty, making it challenging for new distilleries to establish themselves and sell their products. Despite these challenges, smaller distilleries are poised to thrive, although they will face significant pressure. Nevertheless, it’s crucial for them to remain authentic and transparent in their approach to whisky production.

A concerning trend observed among some Irish distilleries is the practice of finishing whisky in various casks, obscuring the true character of the spirit. This approach detracts from the whisky’s identity, akin to wearing excessive layers of clothing that mask one’s true self. Moving forward, distilleries should prioritise honesty and authenticity to attract discerning consumers. The road ahead may be arduous, but it presents an opportunity for distilleries to redefine themselves and engage with consumers on a more genuine level.

Jim Murray at the launch of Amrut Bagheera and Portonova

How can Indian distilleries enhance their quality and global standing?

When considering the steps Indian distilleries can take, it’s important to acknowledge the unique dynamics in the Indian market. Unlike Scotland, India has a massive population of over a billion people, with a growing middle class. Over the past 30 years, I’ve witnessed significant changes in India, particularly in terms of economic growth and an expanding consumer base. The challenges faced by Scotch whisky in India may not be as pronounced, given the increasing number of people who can afford high-quality whisky. Notable distilleries, like Amrut and Paul John, have set a commendable standard, maintaining their commitment to excellence. In my early involvement with Paul John, I assisted in training their blender and witnessed their staunch dedication to quality. Several other Indian companies are also making strides in improving their whisky, demonstrating a continuous pursuit of excellence. While there is always room for improvement, the progress made in all these years is remarkable.

Comparing the whisky from three decades ago to the present would reveal a staggering leap in quality. This positive trajectory showcases the dedication and attention to detail exhibited by Indian distilleries. The success of Indian whisky on the global stage can be attributed to the determination of distilleries to make a lasting impression. Unlike some companies that may compromise on quality when relying solely on their brand name, Indian distilleries have prioritised maintaining high standards. The meticulous attention to detail is a driving force behind the success of Indian whisky. Even distilleries that were once considered mediocre have elevated their standards, while new entrants to the market are setting the bar even higher.  

Heineken’s Five Star Experience

With millennials leaning towards fresher and lighter tipple, Heineken recently launched their Heineken Silver Draught beer in Maharashtra with the aim to make it available in other States soon. In an effort to educate the industry and the consumer, they also hosted a Star Serve programme that teaches the five steps on how their fresh draught beer should be served. Jacqueline Van Faassen, Head of International Premium Portfolio, Heineken India spoke to Bhavya Desai and Vincent Fernandes about the launch and plans moving forward. Excerpts:

The launch of the Heineken Silver Draught beer marks an important milestone for both, Heineken and United Breweries, who’ve been in India together since 2019. But while Heineken is a popular premium beer amongst the consumers, Van Fassen felt that the company was still missing on the draught experience, considering the trend where younger consumers are looking for a more fresher and lighter beer.

Heineken’s Global Draught Master, Frank Evers demonstrating the Five Star Serve Experience

The beer is already popular and available in the global markets and gets its freshness from utilizing natural ingredients like its A-yeast and 100% malt. And the brand is hoping to have similar success with the product in India as well.

Hence they launched the new Heineken Silver Draught beer with the initial launch market as Mumbai, Thane and Pune, which will be supplied from their Taloja factory with an aim to expand to the other States soon, most likely Karnataka once the draught is started brewing there. Apart from Taloja where most of the Heineken beer is manufactured, the company also has brewing plants in Telangana with development underway for another brewery in Mysore, Karnataka.

But what’s interesting is that Heineken is not only looking to capitalise on their new product but also are making efforts to educate the bartenders on how to serve the beer, thereby hoping to educate the consumer touchpoints and the industry as a whole. “This week we educate 400 bartenders on how to pour Heineken draft beer. This includes 200 today in Mumbai and another 200 bartenders in Pune later this week. They are important stakeholders for us since they make sure that bring it to consumers in the best way,” says Jacqueline.

The training programme was led by Heineken’s Global Draught Master, Frank Evers, which includes the five step serve process to give the consumers the best experience of the tipple. The steps include cleaning the glass with cold water, pouring it at a 45-degree angle with the right amount of foam and finally skimming the extra foam off. The foam protects the CO2 keeping the oxygen out making the beer fresh for a longer time says Evers. What’s also unique to the beer is its brewing process, which is horizontally fermented  as compared to the other lager beers which are brewed vertically.

But while serving the beer at the right temperature and with the steps seem interesting, whether the end consumer on-trade is really partaking at these points remains to be seen. But Van Fassen is confident that with the programme and efforts to educate the bartenders, once the consumers are served the beer correctly, they will identify with the quality and freshness of the product. Jacqueline is also aware of the potential of the draught beer category as a whole with a huge market that can be tapped on. She also states that the plans are that unleash the draught beer across India as soon as possible. And to do that they are focusing on activities like partnering with popular sports events like Champions League football. Recently the brand also hosted the F1 races across bars in Mumbai to further build on that social recall.