As whisky enthusiasts gathered at The Oberoi, Gurugram, on March 3rd for the Amrut Distilleries’ whisky tasting event featuring Jim Murray, a distinguished whisky writer and critic renowned for his unparallel mastery of the spirit, it was evident that this was no ordinary experience. The event provided a platform for enthusiasts to engage, learn, and connect. The day culminated in the unveiling of Bagheera and Portonova, marking their debut in the Indian market.
Amrut Team L to R: Gurmeet S. Johal, MD – GD Group; Ashok Chokalingam, Master Distiller of Amrut Distilleries; Rakshit Jagdale, MD, Amrut Distilleries and V. Ravindran, Head of Marketing, Amrut DistilleriesRakshit N. Jagdale, MD, Amrut Distilleries Private Limited
New products offerings, same class and elegance
Rakshit N. Jagdale, Managing Director, Amrut Distilleries Private Limited said, “We challenge ourselves at every step to craft new Amrut Malt variants. Take Amrut Portonova, for instance, an un-peated single malt whisky, that undergoes a unique maturation process. Initially aged in a blend of new American oak and ex-bourbon barrels, it is then transferred to once-used port pipes imported from Portugal before returning to ex-bourbon casks.”
The name “Portonova” pays homage to the town of Parangipettai in Tamil Nadu. Jagdale describes its flavour profile as offering an exotic and vibrant experience with notes of raisins, vanilla, cherry liqueur, and spices, maintaining extraordinary smoothness despite its full cask strength. Tasting notes reveal a rich nose with fruity hints, toffee sweetness, tropical spices, coconut, and cracked black pepper, while the palate delights with homemade red berry jam, caramel sweetness, tropical fruits, banana fritters, and a subtle saltiness, leading to an exceptionally long and fruity finish with traces of raspberries and cranberries lingering on the palate.
The name “Portonova” pays homage to the town of Parangipettai in Tamil Nadu. Jagdale describes its flavour profile as offering an exotic and vibrant experience with notes of raisins, vanilla, cherry liqueur, and spices, maintaining extraordinary smoothness despite its full cask strength. Tasting notes reveal a rich nose with fruity hints, toffee sweetness, tropical spices, coconut, and cracked black pepper, while the palate delights with homemade red berry jam, caramel sweetness, tropical fruits, banana fritters, and a subtle saltiness, leading to an exceptionally long and fruity finish with traces of raspberries and cranberries lingering on the palate.
Commenting on Amrut Bagheera, he said, “This single malt is one to cherish. It exudes a sensory journey that is both complex and rewarding, making it a cherished addition to any whisky enthusiast’s collection.”
Bagheera’s profile boasts vibrant fruity notes, with hints of dried fruits and peach, accompanied by subtle undertones of mild orangey citrus, vanilla, and toffee. Upon nosing, one is greeted with the enticing aroma of salted caramel intertwined with dark chocolate, alongside a medley of fruity notes, possibly dried fruits, with a subtle oak presence and a touch of sandalwood that gradually evolves into a floral bouquet. The taste is a delightful fusion of fruity flavours accented by floral nuances, with a velvety, oily texture. The creamy middle is enhanced by hints of sandalwood and wood phenols, expertly balanced by a gentle peat undertone. The finish is both sweet and dry, leaving a lingering essence of peat.
Limited to 300 bottles allocated for sale in Haryana, Bagheera proves to be a highly sought-after and competitive endeavour, given its status as a truly premium and versatile whisky offering. Jagdale noted, “Since the market release is limited to Haryana and considering their distinctive richness and special status, the MRP for Portonova is approximately ₹15,000, while Bagheera is marked at ₹23,000 per bottle.”
Murray endorses
The tasting event gave an opportunity to whisky lovers to get a peek into the world of Amrut. Murray said, “I’ve known Rakshit [Jagdale] for an extended period. He embodies humility, gentleness, and authenticity, much like his father – a fact I find truly honourable. His expertise is on par with their master distiller and blender, Ashok Chokalingam. Together, they possess an acute understanding of the essence and nuances of their whiskies. I have a genuine appreciation for their creations. While I offered some minor input in guiding their direction, my primary inclination is to assist others naturally. When they released Amrut Fusion, I was thoroughly impressed. It stood out as a pinnacle of quality and innovation. In fact, I ranked it as the third-best whisky I tasted in 2010 due to its exceptional balance. The growing demand for their products prompted them to double their capacity. The recent additions, Bagheera and Portonova, hold immense promise. The dedication of the entire team is apparent in the exceptional quality of their products.”
Jim Murray at the launch of Amrut Bagheera and Portonova
Future plans and projections
Talking about future plans, Raju Vaziraney, Head of Business Development & Adviser, said the goal for Amrut is to remain a trusted brand in India and a place to find innovation and freedom. This means further experimentation into the soul of single malt distillation. “We will be taking our products to 100 countries around the world by 2030. Additionally, we have plans to introduce several special edition releases exclusively for the Indian market in the upcoming years. Furthermore, we intend to distribute limited batches of Portonova and Bagheera to regions beyond Haryana, but it’s important to move with the aspirational trend among Indian customers, emphasising the cautious approach in opening new markets without sufficient stock.” Amrut is presently exporting to 57 countries.
Raju Vazirani, Head of Business Development & Adviser
Gurmeet S. Johal, MD of GD Group, the official distributor for Amrut, added, “We handle a few states for them in North India, including Punjab, Delhi, Chandigarh, and Haryana. Our belief in Amrut’s quality is solid, and their commendable passion for their products has been a driving force for us. Over the past six to eight months, we’ve been in discussions with Amrut to bring in some of their exported malts, even in small quantities, to ensure that local consumers can savour the best offerings from Amrut. We strategically selected Haryana due to its premier status as a high-end alcohol market and with a duty-free environment.”
Johal elaborated, “After months of discussions and tastings, involving Jim Murray in the process, we finalised Bagheera and Portonova. These limited quantities were brought into the market. Looking ahead, our plan is to introduce one or perhaps two limited editions annually. Importantly, these limited editions will not be repeated. With Amrut currently offering around 45-46 different expressions of single malt, even if we request one or two each year, it will be 20 years before we consider repeating something. I want the market to understand this about Amrut: we are not merely a one or two-expression single malt company like the rest.”
Taking over the reins of one of the biggest companies in the market, can never be an easy task, especially when the daunting objective is to ensure double-digit growth, drive revenue and increase profits. Add to that, the first woman to lead the business, but Hina Nagarajan, Managing Director and CEO, Diageo India has not only successfully achieved this, but also surpassed many other feats. She speaks to Bhavya Desai about her journey, future objectives and more. Excerpts:
Since you took over, you’ve made incredible strides towards ensuring that the company becomes net debt free. How have you managed that?
The task ahead of me when I took charge in 2021 was to bring our Diageo India business on a sustained double-digit growth path, especially driving revenue and profitable share in the premium and prestige segments of the Indian alcohol market. Together with my leadership team, we made some strategic choices to win in this decade and beyond.
I led the execution of our portfolio reshape with the objective of accelerating premiumisation-led growth while delivering our guidance of mid to high teens margin. We completed the strategic review of our Popular brand portfolio, resulting in the sale of 32 mass brands and franchising of 11 brands in September 2022.
Our commitment to premiumisation is evident in our investments over the past years. We’ve introduced new products and innovations such as Royal Challenge American Pride, Epitome Reserve’s second limited edition of Peated Indian Single Malt in Goa, and Godawan, a unique single malt from Rajasthan. Additionally, our minority stake in Nao Spirits, the makers of Hapusa and Greater Than, underscores our strategy to grow in the luxury and premium segments, particularly in scotch, where we lead the market.
We also redefined our offerings in the Upper Prestige segment with unique products that resonate with new consumer trends. Furthermore, our efforts to premiumise and reposition brands in the Lower & Mid Prestige segments, such as McDowell’s No.1 Whisky and Royal Challenge Whisky, are part of our strategy to respond to evolving consumer needs.
With the consumer at the heart of our business, the strength of our reshaped portfolio, and the investments we are making to accelerate our strategic priorities, we have been able to deliver our mission of profitable double-digit growth for our business and in the process, wiped out our cumulative losses and declared dividend for the first time since acquisition a decade ago.
Having set on this path, what is Diageo’s next objective – in the coming years?
We feel extremely positive and excited about the future of the alcobev industry in India. The biggest transformation that we see is a whole new generation entering adulthood driven by a different, positive, and progressive set of values. India is in the middle of deep societal change led by women, youth and boom towns. This along with a massive growing need to ‘drink better, not more’ across all segments, is in line with our vision for the category.
The premiumisation trend will continue to stay strong with rising affluence. By 2030, 45% of Indian households (approx. 175 million households) will be in the upper mid and high-income groups. We see a big opportunity, not only to leverage this trend through our incredible portfolio of global and IMFL brands, but also to position Indian whisky as a characterful, distinct, high-quality offering by bringing the best of people, processes, and ingredients together to create bespoke liquids that are ‘Made in India’ for the world.
Our mission is to be a top CPG (Consumer Packaged Goods) company in India delivering sustained double digit topline growth with mid to high teen margins and long-term value to all our stakeholders. With this new strategy, we aim to deliver our Mission through 3 pillars that form the essence of our mission:
Reshaping our portfolio with a focus on accelerating premiumisation-led growth, while delivering our guidance of mid to high teens margins.
Creating an Organisation of the Future – We are building a future-ready organisation by investing in our talent, introducing market-leading policies and driving digital capabilities.
Defining and executing an ambitious role for Diageo in Society 2030 focusing on promoting responsible consumption, championing inclusion & diversity, and pioneering grain-to-glass sustainability which includes preserving water for life, accelerating to a low-carbon world and lastly, becoming sustainable by nature.
Keeping our customers as our main focus, along with the reshaped portfolio of our products and the investments we’re making to accelatate our strategic goals forward, we are confident of growing our business in a steady and sustainable way.
How has the consumer landscape changed over the years in the industry?
India is in the middle of deep societal change led by rising affluence, women, youth and boom towns. The biggest transformation that we see is a whole new generation entering adulthood driven by a different, positive, and progressive set of values. This trend expands to middle India and boom towns which are undergoing a remarkable transformation, fuelled by high aspirations and digital revolution where consumers are looking for premium brands, products, and experiences. The new consumer cohorts are driven by values of authenticity, individuality, local pride and collaboration with women building a more inclusive consumption narrative.
Digital has also been a big game changer. Most consumer journeys begin on digital with discovery, information, inspiration – informing them of their choices and behaviour and most of all aspiration and desire for what they want. If we look at the alcobev category, consumers are choosing different products for different occasions and need.
This means that repertoires are expanding from whisky to gin, vodka, rum, aperitifs, cocktails, etc. Consumers today choose to drink better, not more, leading to premiumisation of the alcobev category. At Diageo , we are responding to these structural shifts in consumer choices and behaviour, pivoted around premiumisation, wellbeing and sustainability. This new, changing, and vibrant India presents a huge opportunity for us.
You are the first woman to lead the business at the company. How do you think this encourages and inspires others across industries?
My appointment sparked interest and garnered positive attention, which reflects the breaking of traditional barriers especially in the alcohol beverage sector. As a woman CEO in alcobev, traditionally a male dominated industry, I see this as an opportunity to change the paradigm of this industry to make it more inclusive and normalise the narrative.
Our efforts are making a difference, leading to an environment where joining our sector feels no different from any other industry for women. At Diageo India, our commitment lies in building a workplace where everyone feels included. 50% of our Executive Committee and 35% of our senior leadership team comprises of women. We believe that a diverse leadership helps create a more balanced and well represented workforce. We’re making this happen by welcoming women into various leadership positions, ensuring we drive change right from the top.
Seeing more women in our company is truly encouraging. Their presence brings fresh ideas and perspectives on how we approach our products, market them, and innovate. This enriches our connection with customers and broadens our talent base, helping us to stand out and succeed in a competitive market. And hopefully, this encourages and inspires others to do more.
With sustainability being a rising factor amongst consumers today, how is Diageo moving towards a more sustainable tomorrow?
We at Diageo strongly believe that social and environmental impact and profitability are not two separate goals but rather interlinked. As one of the world’s largest beverage alcohol producers, we believe that we are ambassadors of our industry and aim to be the best we can – at work, at home, with friends, and in the communities we serve.
Sustainability is at the heart of our business strategy and is outlined in our Society 2030: Spirit of Progress ESG action plan. Our Society 2030 agenda is focussed on pioneering grain-to-glass sustainability, championing inclusion and diversity, and promoting responsible consumption.
Pioneering grain-to-glass sustainability plays a pivotal role in our Society 2030 goals and is embedded throughout the process and focusses on three key aspects; preserving water, lowering carbon emissions, and becoming sustainable by design.
In terms of preserving water we have overachieved our water replenishment target by 25% and three years ahead of our 2026 goals. We have improved our water use efficiency by 44% in our distilleries and 30% in our packaging processes, against the 2030 goal of 40%.
Women and girls are disproportionately affected when communities don’t have access to clean Water, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH) facilities. We’re investing in such projects to empower women by providing sustainable water access and rebalancing their societal roles in more than 30 villages.
At the state level, we have partnered with Forest Department in Rajasthan and Maharashtra for mass plantation projects to improve green cover, protect soil, improve percolation and support biodiversity. In Alwar we have initiated efforts for desilting ponds, constructing check dams, improving drainage systems, to name a few. Measures like maintaining Zero Liquid Discharge status, rainwater harvesting pits, and others were adopted. We have also launched an afforestation drive to plant 2 lakh trees to offset residual greenhouse gas emissions.
We are making good progress in reducing our carbon emissions, and have committed to becoming Net Zero by F26 in our direct operations by mitigating our Scope 1 & 2 emissions and reduce 50% of our Scope 3 emissions by 2030. Our sustained efforts have resulted in industry-recognitions by Sustainalytics recognising the company as a “Top-Rated ESG Performer for 2022 and 2023” and our Alwar unit in Rajasthan,
has achieved the Alliance for Water Stewardship (AWS) certification, making it the first distillery in Asia to attain this certification.
In our efforts to becoming sustainable by design, we have removed mono cartons from 90% of our portfolio. In addition, we have introduced biodegradable packs as well as recyclable PETs in some of our brands and continue to expand it to others. This is aligned to our global mission to ensure 100% of our packaging is widely recyclable or reusable/compostable by 2030. Over 99% of materials used are recyclable. On glass, we have initiated light weighting of our bottles.
Our brands like ‘Signature by Nature’ uses 40% recycled glass for the glass bottle and is associated with Mangrove Plantation in Puri, Orissa where 30,000 Mangroves seedlings are being planted in five villages. These mangroves can sequester carbon up to 2-4 times faster than a mature tropical forest.
Our ESG agenda is owned by senior leadership levels including the board, which monitors the same through a CSR and ESG Committee. The ESG Index report we release annually highlights our progress mapped against each of the three pillars and we have witnessed remarkable achievements.
Our ambition is to be the forerunner in the Indian Consumer Product Goods (CPG) industry on ESG and create enterprise value.
What is Diageo’s roadmap for India with most companies betting big on the Indian markets? What is the next big product category that Diageo is focussing on for the coming years?
Diageo India is responding to structural shifts in consumer choices and behaviour, pivoted around growing affluence, premiumisation across categories, and quest for experiential and experimentation, through its refreshed business strategy focussed on premiumisation and focus on transformational innovation and renovation. We have a future back approach to our innovation pipeline and use a proprietory framework called Foresightto determine where trends will go few years from now.
It is for this reason that we have launched Royal Challenge American Pride which caters to the growing consumer preference for bourbon, renovated Signature to be the most sustainable brand in its segment , developed the Naya Sher campaign encouraging youth to take bold , confident steps forward for our Royal Challenge packaged drinking water as well as launched Walkers & Co – a platform to celebrate bold boundary pushers. We launched Don Julio tequila in the country in response to the growing traction for Tequila consumption in the country. We are also scaling up Baileys given the affinity for desserts in India.
We will continue to use Foresight to guide us on innovations for the future and bring the best of both our global, as well as Made in India portfolio, to cater to the evolving needs of Indian consumers.
While your association ISWAI has been representing centre and states for rationalisation of taxes including GST/Excise etc., do you expect centre to bring reform in the alcobev sector? How do you think this move will be beneficial?
ISWAI has been in talks with State Governments to rationalise high excise duties. It has made representations to the authorities time and again as manufacturers of alcohol beverages (Alco-Bev) continue to face shrinking margins due to high taxes, along with soaring inflation and import tariffs. The biggest barrier faced by the industry is freedom to price its brands. ISWAI continues to advocate for pricing freedom, especially for premium brands, as this will help the industry to overcome inflationary pressures. There are also several other regulatory and operational barriers which hamper ease of doing business for the industry. We have seen positive steps from the government on resolving some of these issues. ISWAI will continue to work proactively with various government bodies on these matters and is hopeful that the state governments will consider a harmonised tax structure as well as an acceptable annual pricing mechanism for the sector and continue to support ease of doing business for our industry.
Jim Murray stands as a prominent figure and key player in the global whiskey scene, having held the title of the world’s first full-time whisky writer for over three decades. The 2024 release of his widely successful “The Whiskey Bible” marks the 20th anniversary of the publication. Maintaining a staunch commitment to independence, Jim fearlessly critiques those deserving of scrutiny and advocates for whiskies that were once overlooked or unfamiliar.
In the present day, the likes of Ardbeg, Pure Irish Pot Still, and Canadian and Japanese whiskies such as Yoichi and Yamazaki have gained widespread popularity, thanks in no small part to Jim’s daring efforts to bring them into the public eye. Despite facing criticism and occasional attempts at character assassination, Jim’s bold choices have significantly shaped the current whisky segment.
In a conversation with Ambrosia, Jim shared insights into his passion for the spirit, details about his personal life, encounters with setbacks and comebacks, and perspectives on emerging whisky trends and Indian distilleries.
What led to your transition from journalism to becoming the world’s first full-time whisky writer, and are there any interesting stories or experiences from your journey you’d like to share?
I began my career in journalism covering sports and general news, gradually diving into more intense subjects like murders and special investigations while working for national newspapers. Amidst these experiences, my first encounter with a distillery occurred in 1975 during a hitchhiking expedition across Scotland. Boarding a boat bound for Skye, I visited the Talisker distillery, and it literally changed my life.
The vibrant sensory details of the distillery – the colours, smells, sounds, and the meticulous process – left a lasting impression on me. As a journalist, I used to get to travel a lot. Tasting whisky straight from the barrel with its 60% alcohol content was a revelation, and it sparked a personal interest. From the age of 17, during my spare time, I started making personal notes on whiskies, differentiating their unique qualities. By 1989, I began writing and selling articles about whisky globally, all while maintaining my role as an investigative journalist.
In media publications, I noticed a gap in whisky coverage. Wine writers were handling whisky topics with incorrect terminology and descriptions. Convinced I knew more about whisky, I considered transitioning into whisky writing. This decision faced resistance, especially as it meant giving up a stable income. Despite the initial resistance from my wife, in 1992, I took the leap, becoming the world’s first full-time whisky writer.
Back then, there were no whisky festivals or visitor centers, maintaining a sense of mystique around the industry. Breaking into the scene was tough. For years, I earned little, even became a single parent. Despite financial challenges, I persevered, creating fresh content for the emerging market. The books I wrote brought in money, but research costs were high due to the lack of prior literature on the subject. Believing in the cause, I endured the financial strain, comparing it to the pain barrier in athletics. It’s been a journey with continuous challenges, drawing parallels to my days as a long-distance runner facing a tough race.
A pivotal moment occurred during a meeting with Jim Milne, a J&B revered blender, who has been blending since the 1950s. In a seminar he conducted, whiskies labelled X, Y, and Z were presented without disclosing the distillery names. Upon nosing one of the whiskies, I asserted, “This doesn’t belong in your blend; it’s Fettercairn.” To this, he acknowledged, “Indeed, that is Fettercairn, and it’s included here only because of an oversight.” By identifying a misplaced sample, I earned the blender’s respect and was urged by him to share my opinions on whisky. This encounter led to a realisation – my extensive self-guided apprenticeship in studying whiskies positioned me uniquely.
Unexpectedly discovering my heightened olfactory senses (got to know I had a unique skill set, ranking in the top 2% for sensitive noses), this breakthrough moment changed my perception, realising I could sense and appreciate whiskies in a distinctive way. I ventured into consulting as a blender, complementing my role as a writer. This unforeseen skill set, acknowledged by one of Scotland’s most respected blenders, allowed me to contribute to the whisky industry in ways I had never imagined.
What is your typical approach to whisky tasting? Are there specific methods or techniques you adhere to during the process?
My approach to whisky is akin to that of a blender. I first identify any flaws in the whisky before acknowledging its merits. This involves deducting points for aspects like added caramel, an imbalance of oak flavours that overpower the malt, and any weaknesses that detract from the overall quality of the whisky. I can discern whether a whisky has been meticulously crafted or hastily put together.
When it comes to public awareness, blind tastings are crucial to eliminate biases. People often have preconceived ideas about certain whiskies, which can influence their perception. Therefore, I conduct blind tastings to remove any biases and judge the whisky solely on its merits. When compiling my Whiskey Bible, I don’t taste blind as I need to consider the distillery’s style and whether the blender has captured its essence. I assess the whisky’s complexity and intended profile before making judgments.
My tasting method, dubbed the “Murray Method”, involves avoiding strong perfumes, water intake, and spicy foods to keep my senses sharp. Strong perfumes can interfere with the senses, affecting the ability to discern aromas accurately. Additionally, I avoid consuming spicy foods while working, ensuring my taste buds remain undisturbed and receptive. However, recognising the cultural practices, I understand that asking Indians not to eat spices isn’t practical, given their culinary preferences. In 1997, I authored “Jim Murray’s Complete Book of Whiskey: The Definitive Guide to the Whiskeys of the World”, which gained significant popularity, selling over a quarter million copies. While discrepancies in numbers and subsequent editions may have altered the count, the book’s success is evident.
I’ve come across articles critiquing the book “Whiskey Bible”, accusing it of being sexist. However, generally, I’ve noticed that descriptions of food in a sensual manner are common in many publications. How do you respond to this perspective?
You need to grasp the immense impact of this book. It sparked the rise of Indian whisky and catapulted Japanese whisky to new heights. I awarded World Whisky of the Year to a Japanese whisky, leading to a whopping 3 billion dollars in revenue for them. Despite this success, I personally didn’t gain financially because I don’t accept kickbacks. I maintain complete independence. However, there’s a phenomenon known as industrial espionage, where some individuals might see the power of this book as a threat.
This book is pivotal because, like food and drink share common ground: sight, smell, taste, and touch. These senses, when combined, create a sensual experience. If people in the industry argue that whisky isn’t sexy, they probably shouldn’t be part of it. As a writer, honesty is of utmost importance. The motto of the Whiskey Bible is “the truth, always above all”. Criticism requires integrity and candour.
Some distilleries hold a grudge against me because I refuse to engage in their marketing tactics or succumb to their influence. Despite my disdain for those attempting to control me, I remain impartial in assessing the quality of their whisky. I won’t conform to the prevailing trends, particularly the notion of labelling everything as an anti-feminist crime. Personally, my marriage met its demise when I embraced the role of a whisky writer, a sacrifice I made for my career. The constant globetrotting has hindered the possibility of forming lasting relationships. I’ve never remarried, but it’s not due to a lack of romantic inclinations. Unfortunately, my genuine love for others has been weaponised by jealous individuals aiming to undermine the influence of the Whiskey Bible. Frankly, I feel sorry for these people, in their pursuit to tarnish my reputation, reveal a certain poverty in their character.
During a recent visit to Kentucky, a woman expressed admiration for my writings on whisky, considering it one of the most beautiful things ever shared with her. The hypersensitive woke culture on certain social media platforms seizes any opportunity to unleash their destructive tendencies, fuelled by baseless hatred. Many of these individuals are familiar with my identity and knowledge of whisky, yet they target me simply because I’m a convenient male figure to attack. This trend reflects the fragility of Western society.
Watching a stunning sunset often sparks a longing for someone to share the experience. Similarly, I take pleasure in sharing my love and passion for whisky with the world. I want to introduce people to the finer things in life.
Jim Murray at the launch of Amrut Bagheera and Portonova
When comparing Indian whisky to traditional whisky-producing nations, do you observe any notable differences?
The primary distinction lies in the heat when comparing it to traditional whisky-making countries. The maturation process in cooler climates allows for an important element: time. This time factor plays a vital role as tannins and other components from the environment have the opportunity to integrate and blend seamlessly. In contrast, hotter countries face a more accelerated maturation process, making it challenging to achieve the desired balance. Balancing whisky in warmer climates requires more effort and skill. While some argue that water quality influences whisky, the key is ensuring water is free from contaminants like pesticides and iron deposits, which can discolour the whisky. Interestingly, despite the romanticised notions surrounding water sources, many Scotch whiskies use tap water.
Unlike the present era filled with marketing gimmicks, the industry in the late ’80s and ’70s was less saturated with such tactics. Kentuckians, for instance, boast about having the best whiskey due to their water source originating underground, having been there for centuries, dissolving limestone and aiding fermentation. This stands in contrast to other Scottish distilleries, although not Glenmorangie and Highland Park, two renowned Scottish distilleries, which also derive their water from limestone, similar to the Kentuckians. I advocate for focussing on the contents of the glass rather than getting swayed by marketing claims on labels.
What trends do you perceive in the whisky industry, in your view?
Looking back at the whisky industry’s history, it’s been characterised by cycles of growth and decline. In the 1980s, whisky consumption dwindled as it was perceived as a drink of the older generation, with younger drinkers favouring lighter spirits. A common joke was that one could spot a whisky drinker by looking at the obituary column, as they were diminishing in number. This decline in blended whisky consumption led to an excess of single malt whisky sitting idle in distillery warehouses. It was during this time that efforts to promote single malt whisky, spearheaded by individuals like Michael Jackson, began to gain traction, revitalising interest in the category.
Similar to the boom in distillery construction in the 1890s, the recent surge in new distillery openings has created a crowded market. However, the current global situation introduces uncertainty, making it challenging for new distilleries to establish themselves and sell their products. Despite these challenges, smaller distilleries are poised to thrive, although they will face significant pressure. Nevertheless, it’s crucial for them to remain authentic and transparent in their approach to whisky production.
A concerning trend observed among some Irish distilleries is the practice of finishing whisky in various casks, obscuring the true character of the spirit. This approach detracts from the whisky’s identity, akin to wearing excessive layers of clothing that mask one’s true self. Moving forward, distilleries should prioritise honesty and authenticity to attract discerning consumers. The road ahead may be arduous, but it presents an opportunity for distilleries to redefine themselves and engage with consumers on a more genuine level.
Jim Murray at the launch of Amrut Bagheera and Portonova
How can Indian distilleries enhance their quality and global standing?
When considering the steps Indian distilleries can take, it’s important to acknowledge the unique dynamics in the Indian market. Unlike Scotland, India has a massive population of over a billion people, with a growing middle class. Over the past 30 years, I’ve witnessed significant changes in India, particularly in terms of economic growth and an expanding consumer base. The challenges faced by Scotch whisky in India may not be as pronounced, given the increasing number of people who can afford high-quality whisky. Notable distilleries, like Amrut and Paul John, have set a commendable standard, maintaining their commitment to excellence. In my early involvement with Paul John, I assisted in training their blender and witnessed their staunch dedication to quality. Several other Indian companies are also making strides in improving their whisky, demonstrating a continuous pursuit of excellence. While there is always room for improvement, the progress made in all these years is remarkable.
Comparing the whisky from three decades ago to the present would reveal a staggering leap in quality. This positive trajectory showcases the dedication and attention to detail exhibited by Indian distilleries. The success of Indian whisky on the global stage can be attributed to the determination of distilleries to make a lasting impression. Unlike some companies that may compromise on quality when relying solely on their brand name, Indian distilleries have prioritised maintaining high standards. The meticulous attention to detail is a driving force behind the success of Indian whisky. Even distilleries that were once considered mediocre have elevated their standards, while new entrants to the market are setting the bar even higher.
United Breweries has launched the London Pilsner Strong Beer in Karnataka emphasising the strategic significance of the region as a pivotal market for the brewing industry. The famous beer which is available in Mumbai and Maharashtra is known for its European hops, which are subjected to a week-long ageing process at sub-zero temperature to ensure quality and smoothness.
UB feels that London Pilsner represents more than just beer, it showcases the high quality and the rich brewing history behind it, which represents the essence of premium craftsmanship. From its crisp initial taste to its smooth finish, London Pilsner offers the consumers a sensory journey through the streets of London, a city with a vibrant culture and renowned brewing heritage.
The Beer is available at Rs. 120 per 650ml bottle at leading outlets across Karnataka. Karnataka is second market after Maharashtra where London Pilsner is going to be available. Vikram Bahl, CMO, United Breweries Limited, said, “We’re thrilled to introduce London Pilsner Beer to Karnataka. From bars to pubs, London Pilsner will be readily available, promising an incomparable drinking experience.”
With millennials leaning towards fresher and lighter tipple, Heineken recently launched their Heineken Silver Draught beer in Maharashtra with the aim to make it available in other States soon. In an effort to educate the industry and the consumer, they also hosted a Star Serve programme that teaches the five steps on how their fresh draught beer should be served. Jacqueline Van Faassen, Head of International Premium Portfolio, Heineken India spoke to Bhavya Desai and Vincent Fernandes about the launch and plans moving forward. Excerpts:
The launch of the Heineken Silver Draught beer marks an important milestone for both, Heineken and United Breweries, who’ve been in India together since 2019. But while Heineken is a popular premium beer amongst the consumers, Van Fassen felt that the company was still missing on the draught experience, considering the trend where younger consumers are looking for a more fresher and lighter beer.
Heineken’s Global Draught Master, Frank Evers demonstrating the Five Star Serve Experience
The beer is already popular and available in the global markets and gets its freshness from utilizing natural ingredients like its A-yeast and 100% malt. And the brand is hoping to have similar success with the product in India as well.
Hence they launched the new Heineken Silver Draught beer with the initial launch market as Mumbai, Thane and Pune, which will be supplied from their Taloja factory with an aim to expand to the other States soon, most likely Karnataka once the draught is started brewing there. Apart from Taloja where most of the Heineken beer is manufactured, the company also has brewing plants in Telangana with development underway for another brewery in Mysore, Karnataka.
But what’s interesting is that Heineken is not only looking to capitalise on their new product but also are making efforts to educate the bartenders on how to serve the beer, thereby hoping to educate the consumer touchpoints and the industry as a whole. “This week we educate 400 bartenders on how to pour Heineken draft beer. This includes 200 today in Mumbai and another 200 bartenders in Pune later this week. They are important stakeholders for us since they make sure that bring it to consumers in the best way,” says Jacqueline.
The training programme was led by Heineken’s Global Draught Master, Frank Evers, which includes the five step serve process to give the consumers the best experience of the tipple. The steps include cleaning the glass with cold water, pouring it at a 45-degree angle with the right amount of foam and finally skimming the extra foam off. The foam protects the CO2 keeping the oxygen out making the beer fresh for a longer time says Evers. What’s also unique to the beer is its brewing process, which is horizontally fermented as compared to the other lager beers which are brewed vertically.
But while serving the beer at the right temperature and with the steps seem interesting, whether the end consumer on-trade is really partaking at these points remains to be seen. But Van Fassen is confident that with the programme and efforts to educate the bartenders, once the consumers are served the beer correctly, they will identify with the quality and freshness of the product. Jacqueline is also aware of the potential of the draught beer category as a whole with a huge market that can be tapped on. She also states that the plans are that unleash the draught beer across India as soon as possible. And to do that they are focusing on activities like partnering with popular sports events like Champions League football. Recently the brand also hosted the F1 races across bars in Mumbai to further build on that social recall.
As per reports Maharashtra’s Excise Department will now, not allow to carry even 1 alcoholic bottle from Goa into Maharashtra. The news comes on the instructions of Shambhuraj Desai, the State Excise Minister due to the increase in the transport of the illicit alcohol across the border of Goa and Maharashtra.
According to the Excise officials there has been an increase in the confiscated liquor at the borders entering Maharashtra at various checkpoints, with smugglers carrying high quantity of bottles.
The Excise Minister has not only asked the officials to be strict, but also also asked them to invoke the MCOCA against them, which allows the Police to liable criminal charges. While the primary target of these will be smugglers who transport alcohol in large quantities, how this affects the regular consumer remains to be seen. Since it is common for consumers to buy alcohol at cheaper prices from Goa to bring home in other States.
Price has always been the biggest motivator for consumers to carry bottles from Goa into other States since alcohol bottles range from a disparity in pricing as it moves towards the upwards range. Most bottles have a price disparity of nearly 35-40% or more in Maharashtra/other states as compared to Goa. Although the smuggling is seen more in IMFL brands and not imported brands, a regular consumer is often seen carrying imported brands as well.
Updates for Flights from Goa:
Currently there is no indication that consumers aren’t allowed to carry alcohol in flights from Goa. While the focus of these checkpoints is expected to be on road, there isn’t any information on the alcohol carried by air by consumers. The stipulated limit for carrying alcohol from Goa is 4-5 litres by air. Although carrying even 1 bottle isn’t permitted by law, consumers do carry their stipulated limit often when flying out of Goa.
Ambrosia will try and speak to the Excise Officials to get more updates on the same and will update the article periodically. So do check back to see if there have been any changes to that rule.
With December around the corner, Goa is expecting a high influx of visitors like every year and it is expected that these users will carry alcohol back to their home States. Incase you are traveling by road then do expect some stringent checking at the Goa-Maharashtra borders, while the scenario with flights continues to be the same with no challenges yet for carrying alcohol.
But in an interview with TOI, Ravindra Awale, Kolhapur’s Excise Superintendent stated that they are going to set up portable cabins along the unattended roads between Goa and Maharashtra to plug in the smaller roots. “Right now, we have proposed action under section 93 of the Maharashtra Prevention of Dangerous Activities Act against repeat offenders. Applying MCOCA will help bring down the number of cases.”
